angels (или devils) on horseback

As I ate my devils on horseback and drank the last of the claret, I was wondering whether, if he had not made his demarche to Brown the night before, Tom Orbell might have been at this dinner. (C. P. Snow, ‘The Affair’, ch. 23) — я ел устрицы с ветчиной, пил свой кларет и гадал, получил бы приглашение на сегодняшний обед Том Орбэлл, если бы не его вчерашний конфликт с Брауном.